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  — Arpeggiator

Some small observations on correct guitar wiring.

Most guitars are not wired correctly. The trouble is luthiers not getting that there's such a thing as backward notation, which is sadly common. In a nutshell: "ground" and "-" in common electric schematics really is "send", that is, "+". Real notation, where current flows the way it's meant to ("+" is input), is usually denoted by a "->" sign. There is a more concise way of describing current flow in a guitar with "cold" and "hot" wires, which makes sense.

Anyway, the consequence is that most luthiers apparently are deluded and happily send the actual pickup feed current through all the potentiometers. Also cavity shielding (usually conductive black paint). Just because it's labelled "ground" or "-", which it isn't - it's really "send" or "+".

The result is a really queer-looking chain: cable socket->pot shell->pot shell->pickup->pot->pot->mixer switch. Needless to say, that's at least a pair of slowdowns along the way, and because of the habit of energising potentiometer shells, there's also a potential hum source in the way. The fix is similar to star-wiring, feeding each pickup directly from the socket and daisy-chaining the energising wires for bridge and cavity and pots straight from the input socket. If there is conductive paint or copper foil in the cavity, pots must be insulated from it, or there may be "ground" loop hum (or crackle).

This scheme of wiring looks like this:

input socket->pickup 1
input socket->pickup 2
input socket->v. pot 1->t. pot 1
input socket->v. pot 2->t. pot 2

Etc. The trick is getting an individual feed to pickups, and then feeding tone pots off volume pots (this is because they need volume pot current for reference). The bridge wire and any cavity shielding (paint or foil) can be fed off a tone pot leg 1 (the one that's usually soldered onto the pot shell, but is now fed by daisy-chaining input current off the cable socket). The result is a noticeably quicker, more dynamic pickup response.

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